Measure the Voltage at the fuse to chassis, it should be over 12, now while watching the Voltage engage the starter, I would expect it not to drop below 10 or it will be too low for the electronic ignition. On the schematics I can find the battery seems to be wired directly to the starter solenoid with another wire fed from the solenoid to a 40 Amp fuse that then feeds the ignition switch. You seem to suspect the starter is drawing all the power and not leaving enough for the electronic ignition. I have tried searching the HD forums, but can't find anything like this. So if you can point me in the right direction inside that starter, that would be a big help. But I don't remember having a problem like the HD is having. I have taken apart and cleaned up Guzzi Bosch starters. So.before I buy a new starter or try to clean the original, were would you be looking? The 85-90 was smooth, not like the wildly fluctuating HD starter. Hooked it up to my Ambo and it had a spike of about 120ish and then settled to about 85-90 amps. My clamp on meter is bouncing wildly from a low of about 250 to a high of about 450 amps. Book states that it should use 200 amps max under load. What I have found so far is that the starter is needing excessively high amps to turn the engine over. The bike power is from a wire connected to the positive solenoid terminal. Positive to the solenoid and negative to the engine. The battery to starter is the same as an Eldo/Ambo, pretty simple. The only issue that I did notice, even when the temp ground cable was installed was that the ground cable felt warm, not hot, just warm and the positive didn't seem as warm. I have cleaned the ground and positive connection, added a temporary ground wire to the engine. I have tried to find the problem with a brand new DMM with clamp on Amp meter. Battery is an Odyssey PC545 about 2 years old. The bike is a 2007 HD Street Bob, FI, 96" with about 15K miles. During the summer, it seems to start well, but in the cold of about 50deg +/- is when the issue really shows itself. The starting problem was an issue for the PO, not sure from new when it started. The battery is charged (12.7V), but runs down very quickly. We offer a large choice of top-notch Harley Davidson motorcycle fuse blocks carefully designed and manufactured by some of the industry leaders.The problem is that the bike will crank over but not start, sorta like a car with a weak battery, like not enough to run the ignition as well as crank. They can warn you about the need to check the electrical system of your machine. They cost almost nothing if compared to the cost of the accessories they are protecting. Tube fuses and blade designs are among the most common types. Fuses are classified depending on the amperage that they are able to withstand, and they can come in different sizes and shapes. In motorcycles' electrical circuits, fuses are usually packed together in fuse boxes, which makes the maintenance much easier. It melts if the current within the circuit increases. It consists of a thinner section of a wire if compared to the rest of the circuit designed to bear only the safe amount of current, optimal for running the equipment. The operation of a typical fuse is simple and ingenious. In electrical circuitry, fuses play a huge role in keeping the system safe while protecting its components from sudden current surges and short circuits. Modern motorcycles use electricity from the battery and alternator to run all the electric equipment and electronics including headlight and brake and tail lights, signal lights, engine control module, ignition, instrument cluster, stereo, horn, and so on.
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